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Monday, August 27, 2012

a picnic


the night before ... home made takoyaki
Last week was the Obon season, so took the time to visit a family friend in Osaka and go on a short weekend break at Kamikawa in Hyogo. There a many ways to get to Osaka from Nagoya. One can drive there if one has a car, then there’s the shinkansen, and the highway bus… As weren’t rushing to get there, we opted for the 3 hr highway bus, which departs at 12:30 noon from Nagoya Station and arrive Osaka Station at 3:30pm. Our bus only arrived an hour than scheduled due to a car accident where we saw a car turned turtle on the highway approaching Osaka…

Kamikawa is located in the mountains of Hyogo, northwest of Osaka. It is about two hours drive on the highway, and then another 30 minutes on the country road (the roads are really narrow and winding along the rushing river!) to get to our destination Furusato mura (Shinden Furusato camping village). This place is not listed in my lonelyplanet book!
 
located in a narrow valley ... the Pine Tree Top cabins
firing up the barbie
10 m man-made waterfall within the park grounds
No we didn’t camp, mainly for a barbeque, and to enjoy the outdoor with all the creature comfort. We stayed in the Pine Tree Top cabin, where upstairs is the cozy sleeping area and below, we set up our barbeque.

No, we didn’t even take a dip in the stream, just waded in it, for the water was to icy. Planned to dip in the onsen (15 minutes drive away), but alas, we got there at closing time (10pm)… we were enjoying the barbie too long!! Drove back to the park, and had a real shower (with hot water!) from the 24-hr coin shower within the park area. It costs 200 Yen for 3 minutes. Sounds like a short time, but I surprised myself by finishing with about 40 seconds left (yes, there’s a digital timer on the shower panel!) – my personal best time for quickest shower.

bottom of the bag
In the mean time, I managed to finish knitting a multipurpose bag – may be a picnic bag – during the entire 7 hrs bus ride from Nagoya to Osaka and back! The bag comprise of four rectangular panels and attached together to form the bottom and sides. The four ‘ears’ (triangles) at the opening are divided into two sides, with two ears on each side. Two ears are folded over a round plastic handle, and sewn back to hold the handle in place. This is a very stretchable bag.

knitted picnic bag with two different sides


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Friday, August 3, 2012

entrelac kinchaku


At the mall the other day I saw an elderly man in his drab blue yukata top and matching knee-length shorts and wearing sandals sitting in the rest area, fanning himself with a sensu in one hand and holding a bottle of drink in the other, surely trying to cool himself off the current summer heat wave.

In summer, many men and women, boys and girls wear the yukata, a casual summer kimono made of cotton. It is especially worn at summer events during fireworks displays and bon-odori festivals. The sensu or uchiwa, and geta (sandals) are accessories of the yukata. Other accessories are the sash (worn around the waist in womens’ yukata), and kinchaku (drawstring carrybag).

This kinchaku pattern is knitted in-the-round beginning from the bottom up. I have knitted two versions of the bag, the first version slightly larger than the second version. Both versions are flat-bottomed, with version A knitted with a pattern of twin stem leaves after the entrelac section, and version B simply entrelac pseudo-in-the-round all the way up to the ‘neck’. The entrelac stiches in this pattern are repeats of 6 sts per base triangle. For both versions, I inserted a few eyelets for the drawstring, at the neck. The drawstrings are a pair of 3 st i-cord, 48 cm long in version A, and 32 cm in version B.


Materials
Needles: A set of four 3.3 mm DPNs, a pair of 2.1 mm DPNs, and one 3.9 mm DPN for the loose bo.

Yarn: 1 ball of Flower Garden (cotton 50%; acrylic 50%); 30g (84m) per ball; per colour.
Colour A: pink mix;
Colour B: yellow mix.

Gauge: 26 sts in 10 cm, 20 rows in 5 cm in St st.

Finished measurements:
ver.A: 18 cm (width) x 15 cm (height);
ver.B: 14 cm (width) x 13 cm (height).


Instructions
Versions A & B.
For ver.A, use Colour A, continue until Rnd 17 [72 sts].
For ver.B, use colour B, continue until Rnd 13 [54 sts].

Co 6 sts, and divide evenly onto 3 dpns, and join in the round.
Round 1: kfb [12 sts].
Rnd 2: k.
Rnd 3: (k, kfb, kfb, k) 3 times [18 sts].
Rnd 4: k.
Rnd 5: (kfb, k4, kfb) 3 times [24 sts].
Rnd 6: k.
Rnd 7: (k2, kfb, k2, kfb, k2) 3 times [30 sts].
Rnd 8: k.
Rnd 9: (k3, kfb, k2, kfb, k3) 3 times [36 sts].
Rnd 10: k.
Rnd 11: (kfb, k2, kfb, k4, kfb, k2, kfb) 3 times [48 sts].
Rnd 12: k.
Rnd 13: (k4, kfb, k6, kfb, k4) 3 times [54 sts].
Rnd 14: k.
Rnd 15: (k3, kfb, k2, kfb, k4, kfb, k2, kfb, k3) 3 times [66 sts].
Rnd 16: k.
Rnd 17: (k5, kfb, k10, kfb, k5) 3 times [72 sts].


Next Rnd: Start base triangles. Versions A & B.
Row 1: With RS facing, k1, turn.
R 2 and all WS rows: p all, turn.
R 3: sl1, k, turn.
R 5: sl1, k2, turn.
R 7: sl1, k3, turn.
R 9: sl1, k4, turn.
R 11: sl1, k5. Don’t turn.
Repeat R 1 – 11 to the end of the round.
For ver.A, you will have 12 base triangles, and for ver.B, 9 base triangles.


Next Rnd: Start first tier of blocks. Versions A & B.
First block in Tier 1.
Row 1: With RS facing, pu 6 sts kwise along edge of base triangle on the left, i.e. from base to tip. Then turn.
R 2 and all WS rows: sl1 pwise, p4, p2tog, turn.
R 3: k6, turn.
Repeat R 2 & 3 for six more times. Don’t turn on the sixth WS row.

Second, and subsequent blocks in Tier 1.
Row 1: With WS facing, pu 6 sts pwise along edge of base triangle on the right, i.e. from tip to base. Then turn.
R 2 and all RS rows: k6, turn.
R 3: sl1 pwise, p4, p2tog, turn.
Repeat R 2 & 3 for six more times. Don’t turn on the sixth WS row.
Repeat steps for Second, and subsequent blocks in Tier 1, to end of round.
For ver.A, you will have 12 blocks, and for ver.B, 9 blocks.


Next Rnd: Start second tier of blocks. Versions A & B.
First block in Tier 2.
Row 1: With WS facing, pu 6 sts pwise along edge of base triangle on the left, i.e. from base to tip. Then turn.
R 2: sl1, k4, k2tog, turn.
R 3 and all WS rows: p6, turn.
Repeat R 2 & 3 for six more times. Don’t turn on the sixth RS row.

Second, and subsequent blocks in Tier 2.
Row 1: With RS facing, pu 6 sts kwise along edge of base triangle on the right, i.e. from tip to base. Then turn.
R 2 and all WS rows: p6, turn.
R 3: sl1, k4, k2tog, turn.
Repeat R 2 & 3 for six more times. Don’t turn on the sixth RS row.
Repeat steps for Second, and subsequent blocks in Tier 2, to end of round.


Next Rnd: Start third tier of blocks. Versions A & B.
First block in Tier 3.
Repeat steps for First block in Tier 1, picking up sts from blocks rather than triangles.

Second, and subsequent blocks in Tier 3.
Repeat steps for Second, and subsequent blocks in Tier 1, picking up sts from blocks rather than triangles.

Next Rnd:
Ver.A: Proceed (leap to) to next round of steps (Continue in straight St st.)
Ver.B. Start fourth tier of blocks, and continue until Tier 7.

Tiers 4 and 6.
  1. Repeat steps for First block in Tier 2, picking up sts from blocks rather than triangles.
  2. Repeat steps for Second, and subsequent blocks in Tier 2, picking up sts from blocks rather than triangles.

Tier 7.
  1. Repeat steps for First block in Tier 1, picking up sts from blocks rather than triangles.
  2. Repeat steps for Second, and subsequent blocks in Tier 1, picking up sts from blocks rather than triangles.


Next Rnd: Final Tier of triangles in-the-round. Versions A & B.
Work the final tier of triangles to create a horizontal line of live sts at top of the entrelac section.

First triangle in Final Tier.
Row 1: With WS facing, pu 6 sts pwise along edge of block on the right, i.e. from base to tip. Then turn.
R 2: k5, ssk, turn.
R 3: p5, wrap next st, turn.
R 4: k4, ssk, turn.
R 5: p4, wrap next st, turn.
R 6: k3, ssk, turn.
R 7: p3, wrap next st, turn.
R 8: k2, ssk, turn.
R 9: p2, wrap next st, turn.
R 10: k, ssk, turn.
R 11: p, wrap next st, turn.
R 12: ssk. Don’t turn.

Second, and subsequent triangles in Final Tier.
Row 1: With RS facing, pu 6 sts kwise along edge of block on the left, i.e. from tip to base. Transfer last pu st to needle on left, ssk. Then turn.
R 2: p5, wrap next st, turn.
R 3: k4, ssk, turn.
R 4: p4, wrap next st, turn.
R 5: k3, ssk, turn.
R 6: p3, wrap next st, turn.
R 7: k2, ssk, turn.
R 8: p2, wrap next st, turn.
R 9: k, ssk, turn.
R 10: p, wrap next st, turn.
R 11: ssk. Don’t turn.
Repeat R 1 – 11 to end of round.


Next Rnd: continue in St st in-the-round.
Version A.
k 2 rounds.
Next rnd (45 rounds): *knit twin stem leaves pattern. rep * 3 times.
[Twin stem leaves pattern: see ‘Three Leaf Mitts’ free pattern by Brenda KB Anderson. Start with Right Leaf, and continue with Left Leaf on each needle. Leave out the pattern rep for Rnds 6-17].
NR: k.
NR: *k4, yo, k2tog; rep * 12 times.
NR: k.
NR: k.
bo loosely, and weave in ends.



Version B.
NR: *k2, yo, k2tog; rep * 9 times.
NR: k.
NR: k.
bo loosely, and weave in ends.

I-cord: knit a 3-st i-cord using the smaller pair of dpns; make 2 each version. Thread thr eyelets and tie a knot to fasten.
 ~Have fun!~



summer bloom (Tsuruma Park) - inspiration for floral patterns as seen on women's yukatas

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Saturday, July 28, 2012

summer amigurumi: cicada, fish and octopus

Went away for two weeks beginning early July, and when I returned, the cicadas have appeared… "Creaking" cicadas signals the height of summer season in Japan. (Although the average daily temperature is 32oC, currently it is 36oC). Anyway, the male cicadas creak away in a 24 hour cycle. It seems that they do their most spirited singing during the cooler hours of the day, before mid-day and at sundown. From my record, they will continue on like this till late August.





close up of shell left behind after a cicada molts

cicada galore














Well, to make up for the missing weeks, here are three amigurumi patterns – a cicada (semi), a fish (sakana) and an octopus (tako) – the italicized words in parenthesis are the respective Japanese names. 

The pattern knit methods are inspired by Katie Startzman’s (duofiberworks.com) ‘Little Birds’. Some of the patterns also incorporate new stitches I fell in love with (in the last week). See the respective pattern for stitch reference.

… oh, and all the little animals are about the same size and proportion, so they make good company of each other! Have fun!


Materials
Needles: A set of four 3.3 mm DPNs, a pair of 2.1 mm DPNs, and a darning needle.

Yarn: 1 ball of Sakura (100% acrylic); 40g per ball. For one ball of yarn, I can get 6 animals, and still have a good few centimetres of yarn left. I used three colours (the adjectives in parenthesis are my own, as the specific colour of the yarns are not given, just the ‘dye lot’, i.e. 56, 30 and 36 respectively):
Colour A: (sakura) pink;
Colour B: (jade) green; and
Colour C: (emerald) blue.

Yarn (for the eyes): 1 ball of Acrylic Medium Thick Yarn Deodorant in Black (100% acrylic); 45g per ball. You will need only a few centimetres.

Stuffing: I used Polyester 100%.

Gauge: 26 sts in 10 cm, 20 rows in 5 cm in St st.


Little Bird by Katie Startzman (duofiberworks.com; 2010)
Finished measurements: 4 cm (width) x 7.5 cm (length) x 5.5 cm (height)

I substituted the eyes and beak, and simply left out the feet of this pattern, with a knit. For the eyes, I use a thick black yarn and sew two vertical dashes, one on each side of the head. For the beak, I knit a small flat triangle of the same yarn as the rest of the body, and use the longtail to attach it to position. Now, the little birdie is safe for kids and adults!


Cicada
Finished measurements: 4 cm (width) x 8.5 cm (length) x 3.5 cm (height)

Note: this pattern incorporates the Bamboo stitch (by Sarah E. White of About.com) on the body and wings of the cicada, knitted in the round.
Pattern (repeat Rounds 1 & 2 for pattern):
Round 1: *yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts; rep * to end.
Round 2: k.

Instructions
Body
With Colour A, co 6 sts, with larger dpn; divide the stitches evenly over 3 dpns.
  1. *kfb,k; rep * to end [9 sts];
  2. k;
  3. *k, kfb, k; rep * to end [12 sts];
  4. k;
  5. *k, kfb, kfb, k; rep * to end [18 sts];
  6. k;
  7. *k, kfb, k2, kfb, k; rep * to end [24 sts];
  8. k;
  9. *k2, kfb, k2, kfb, k2; rep * to end [30 sts];
  10. k;
  11. knit pattern. (2 rounds); rep once more (4 rounds total);
  12. *k, ssk, k4, k2tog, k; rep * to end [24 sts];
  13. k;
  14. *k, ssk, k2, k2tog, k; rep * to end [18 sts];
  15. knit pattern. (2 rounds); rep once more (4 rounds total);
  16. k; rep 4 rounds more (5 rounds total);
  17. rep knit pattern (2 rounds);
Stuff body.

  1. k; rep 3 rounds more (4 rounds total);
  2. Seam off using the Kitchener Stitch. This end will be the front of the cicada’s head.

Wings
With Colour B, co 4 sts, with larger dpn.
Left wing
  1. p;
  2. k3, M1, k1 [5 sts];
  3. p;
  4. yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts;
  5. p;
  6. k4, M1, k1 [6 sts];
  7. p;
  8. *yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts; rep * to end;
  9. p;
  10. k3, M1, k2, M1, k1 [8 sts];
  11. p;
  12. *yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts; rep * to end.
  13. p;
  14. k4, M1, k3, M1, k1 [10 sts];
  15. p;
  16. k3, k2tog [8 sts];
  17. p;
  18. k;
  19. p;
  20. k;
  21. p, (p2tog)3, p [5 sts];
  22. yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts;
  23. p;
  24. bo [5 sts].
Right wing
  1. p;
  2. k1, M1, k3 [5 sts];
  3. p;
  4. yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts;
  5. p;
  6. k1, M1, k4 [6 sts];
  7. p;
  8. *yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts; rep * to end;
  9. p;
  10. k1, M1, k2, M1, k3 [8 sts];
  11. p;
  12. *yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts; rep * to end.
  13. p;
  14. k1, M1, k3, M1, k4 [10 sts];
  15. p;
  16. ssk, k3 [8 sts];
  17. p;
  18. k;
  19. p;
  20. k;
  21. p, (p2tog)3, p [5 sts];
  22. yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts;
  23. p;
  24. bo [5 sts].

The bind off end forms the base of the wing. Sew on wings into position.


Fore legs (Make 2 i-cords)
With Colour A, co 5 sts, with smaller dpn.
  1. k 3 rows;
  2. ssk, k, k2tog [3 sts];
  3. k 1 row;
  4. *k2, sl1; rep * for two rows;
  5. ssk, 1;
  6. bo.

Tip: use a crochet hook to aid knitting the ssk and k2tog.

The bind off end forms the tip of the leg. Sew on legs into position. Fold the legs backward at the narrow join (see pic.)

Sew on the eyes on opposite corners of the head.


 
Fish
Finished measurements: 4 cm (width) x 8.0 cm (length) x 3.5 cm (height)

Note: this pattern also incorporates the Bamboo stitch (see pattern for Cicada) on the body, giving the fish body a scaly texture. The (pectoral) fins incorporate the Slip stich (also by S.E. White), knitted flat.







Instructions
Body
With Colour B, co 6 sts, with larger dpn; divide the stitches evenly over 3 dpns.
  1. *kfb; rep * to end [12 sts];
  2. k;
  3. *k, kfb, M1, kfb, k; rep * to end [21 sts];
  4. k;
  5. ssk, k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k4, k2tog, k2 [17sts];
  6. k;
  7. ssk, k4, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1 [13sts];
  8. k;
  9. ssk, k2, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2 [9sts];
  10. k;
  11. *k, kfb, k; rep * 3 more times, k [13 sts];
Re-arrange sts on needles like this: needle 1 and 3 – 4 sts, needle 2 – 5 sts.
  1. k6, M1, k, M1, k6 [15 sts];
  2. k;
  3. (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 4, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 3;
  4. k;
  5. k, kfb, k, kfb, k7, kfb, k, kfb, k [19 sts];
  6. (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 4, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 5;
  7. k, kfb, k, kfb, k11, kfb, k, kfb, k [23 sts];
  8. (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 6, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 5;
  9. k;
  10. (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 5, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 6;
  11. k, kfb, k2, kfb, k13, kfb, k2, kfb, k [27 sts];
  12. (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 7, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 6;
  13. k3, kfb, k3, kfb, k11, kfb, k3, kfb, k3 [31 sts];
  14. (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 7, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 8;
  15. k;
  16. (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 8, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 7;
  17. k, ssk, ssk, k4, k2tog, k9, ssk, k4, k2tog, k2tog, k [25 sts];
  18. yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 3, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 3, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts;
  19. k, ssk, k, ssk, k13, k2tog, k, k2tog, k [21 sts];
  20. yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 2, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 2, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts, (yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts) 2, yo, k, pass the yo over the st, yo, k2, pass the yo over both sts;
  21. k, ssk, k6, k3tog, k6, k2tog, k [17 sts];
Stuff body.

  1. k2, (ssk) 3, k, (k2tog) 3, k2;
  2. k4, k3tog, k4 [9 sts];
  3. Seam off using the Kitchener Stitch. This end will be the front of the fish’s head.

Pectoral fins (Make 2)
With Colour B, co 9 sts, with smaller dpn.
  1. p;
  2. k, *sl1 wyif, k; rep * to end;
  3. p, p2tog, p3, p2tog, p [7 sts];
  4. k, *sl1 wyif, k; rep * to end;
  5. p, p2tog, p, p2tog, p [5 sts];
  6. k, *sl1 wyif, k; rep * to end;
  7. p, p3tog, p [3 sts];
  8. k, sl1 wyif, k;
  9. bo purlwise.

The bind off end forms the base of the fin. Sew on fins into position.

Sew on the eyes on opposite sides of the head.


Octopus
Finished measurements: 4 cm (head width) x 7.5 cm (diameter of base {across unstretched arms} x 5 cm (height)

Instructions
Body (Head)
With Colour B, co 6 sts, with larger dpn; divide the stitches evenly over 3 dpns.
  1. *kfb; rep * to end [12 sts];
  2. (k, kfb, kfb, k) 3 [18 sts];
  3. (k, kfb, k2, kfb, k) 3 [24 sts];
4.      k;
  1. (k2, kfb, k2, kfb, k2) 3 [30 sts];
  2. k;
Next, make eyelet row.

  1. k2, yo, k2tog, (k, yo, k2tog) 9;
  2. k;
  3. k;
  4. (k, ssk, k4, k2tog, k) 3 [24 sts];
  5. k;
  6. k;
  7. (k, ssk, k2, k2tog, k) 3 [18 sts];
  8. k;
  9. k;
At this stage, make a ‘hachimaki’ (stylized headband) as a three-strand braid, with Colour C; the length is twice the head diameter. Tie a knot at both ends of the braid, leaving about 2 cm of the unbraided strands hanging. Weave through eyelets, and fasten.
Stuff body.

  1. (k2, k2tog, k2) 3 [15 sts];
  2. k;
  3. k;
  4. (ssk, k, k2tog) 3 [9 sts];
  5. (ssk, k) 3 [6 sts];
  6. *kfb; rpt * to end [12 sts]
  7. (k, kfb, kfb, k) 3 [18 sts];
  8. (k, kfb, k2, kfb, k) 3 [24 sts];
  9. Transfer first two stitches and the last stitch of the last round onto a smaller dpn. This will form the base of the first arm.

Arms (Make 8)
Continuing from the 3 sts in Step 24 above, make a 3-st i-cord using Colour C.
  1. knit 8 rows;
  2. k2, sl1 purlwise;
  3. ssk, k [2sts];
  4. k2;
  5. bo.

Repeat for the remaining arms.

Weave in all loose ends.

Twist the arms to form a left curve.

Sew on the eyes in position.


~Enjoy!~



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